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Sanitizing lab equipment and workspaces is crucial for maintaining the integrity of cosmetic formulations and ensuring product safety. One of the most commonly used sanitizers in cosmetic labs is isopropyl alcohol (IPA). However, there is often confusion about whether 70% or 99% IPA is more effective for this purpose. This blog post explores why 70% isopropyl alcohol is typically the better choice for sanitizing in a cosmetic lab setting.


Understanding Isopropyl Alcohol

Isopropyl alcohol is a versatile disinfectant and antiseptic used in various industries, including cosmetics. It is available in different concentrations, with 70% and 99% being the most commonly used in lab settings. The percentage indicates the concentration of isopropyl alcohol in the solution, with the remainder being water and other impurities.


Why 70% Isopropyl Alcohol is More Effective


1. Optimal Microbial Killing

The effectiveness of isopropyl alcohol as a disinfectant is influenced by its concentration. Studies have shown that 70% IPA is more effective at killing microorganisms compared to higher concentrations. This is because 70% IPA has the right balance of alcohol and water to penetrate microbial cell walls and denature proteins effectively. The water content in 70% IPA helps in the alcohol's absorption into the cells, leading to a more effective microbial kill.


2. Enhanced Penetration

Alcohols work by denaturing proteins and disrupting cell membranes. At 70% concentration, the water content aids in this process by allowing the alcohol to penetrate more deeply into microbial cells. Higher concentrations, like 99%, can cause rapid coagulation of proteins on the surface of microorganisms, creating a protective layer that inhibits further alcohol penetration and reduces its effectiveness.


3. Reduced Evaporation

70% IPA has a slower evaporation rate compared to 99% IPA. This slower evaporation allows the alcohol to remain in contact with surfaces and equipment for a longer period, increasing the contact time and effectiveness of the disinfection process. In contrast, the rapid evaporation of 99% IPA can reduce its disinfecting action and lead to uneven sanitization.


4. Less Risk of Damage

The use of 99% IPA can be harsh on certain materials commonly found in cosmetic lab equipment, such as plastics and rubber. The high concentration of alcohol can cause these materials to degrade over time, affecting the longevity and functionality of the equipment. 70% IPA is less aggressive and reduces the risk of damage to lab surfaces and equipment, making it a safer choice for routine cleaning and sanitizing.


5. Cost-Effectiveness

70% IPA is often more cost-effective than 99% IPA. Because it is used at a lower concentration, it tends to be less expensive per unit volume while still providing effective sanitization. This makes it a more economical option for labs that require large quantities of sanitizing agents.


How to Use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol Effectively

To maximize the effectiveness of 70% IPA, follow these guidelines:

  • Ensure Proper Coverage: Apply IPA to all surfaces and equipment thoroughly, making sure to cover every part that needs sanitization.

  • Allow Sufficient Contact Time: Let the alcohol sit on surfaces for at least 30 seconds to ensure effective microbial killing. Avoid wiping it off too soon.

  • Use Clean, Lint-Free Cloths: When wiping surfaces, use clean, lint-free cloths to avoid introducing contaminants.

  • Store Properly: Keep IPA in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its effectiveness.

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INCI

Cetyl Alcohol


WHAT DOES IT DO AND WHY DO WE USE IT?

Cetyl Alcohol is a versatile fatty alcohol used primarily as an emulsion thickener and

opacifier. It enhances the viscosity, body, texture, and skin feel of lotions and creams,

providing a velvety touch. This ingredient is beneficial for its emollient properties, as it

absorbs into the epidermis to soften and lubricate the skin. It’s also used to increase the

melting point of anhydrous body butters, scrubs, lotion bars, and balms.



SOLUBILITY: Oil Soluble

USAGE RATE: 1-30%

CHARGE: Non-Ionic

APPEARANCE: White or Off White pellets.

ODOR: Nothing to note.

FORM: Waxy Pellets

PH VALUE: N/A

MELT RANGE: 49c (120F)

NATURE STATUS: Permitted in Natural Cosmetics

HLB VALUE: 15.5

STORAGE: You can store Cetyl Alcohol in a Zip Lock bag or a Tupperware container, and it should be kept in a cool, dry place.


BENEFITS: Cetyl Alcohol is an excellent addition to any formulator's ingredient inventory due to its versatility across a broad range of formulations. It serves as an effective thickener, often preferred over waxes like beeswax or candelilla because it enhances the texture without imparting a waxy feel. Even a small percentage can significantly increase the viscosity of a product. Additionally, Cetyl Alcohol is beneficial in anhydrous body butters, where it helps extend the melting time, making the product more stable in warmer conditions.


WHAT WE CAN MAKE WITH IT

● Lotions/Creams

● Body Butters

● Balms

● Sugar Scrubs

● Hair Conditioners


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Getting Started with Affordable Ingredients: A Guide for New Formulators

When you're just starting out in cosmetic formulation, it can be tempting to turn to Amazon for your ingredient purchases. (For more information, please refer to my post titled Buying

Ingredients on Amazon.) While this is a common approach, it's essential to understand that

there are better options available, particularly through reliable small-scale suppliers.


As you browse these suppliers' websites, you may find yourself overwhelmed by the sheer

variety of ingredients. Many of them sound appealing, and it’s easy to get excited about

incorporating exotic oils and costly extracts into your formulations. However, I strongly

recommend starting with affordable, accessible ingredients until you've gained more experience in formulation.


Every new formulator makes mistakes—it's a natural part of the learning process. But making a mistake with expensive ingredients can be incredibly frustrating and costly. By focusing on more affordable options, you can experiment freely without worrying about breaking the bank.


To help you get started, I’ve put together a list of affordable ingredients that are perfect for

beginning your formulation journey:


1) Distilled or Deionized Water


When formulating products that contain water, it's crucial to use distilled or deionized water. Tap or spring water contains impurities that can compromise the stability and safety of your

products. Distilled or deionized water is readily available at supermarkets or drugstores and

should always be your go-to choice for water-based formulations.


2) Carrier Oils


Carrier oils are a staple in both anhydrous and emulsified products, providing nourishment and aiding in the absorption of active ingredients. Start with a small selection of affordable oils, and as you grow as a formulator, you can expand your collection. Here are a few great options:


  • Sweet Almond Oil: Affordable and versatile, Sweet Almond Oil has a medium

    absorption rate and is rich in Vitamin D. It’s an excellent choice for lotions, creams, body butters, and balms.

  • Sunflower Oil: With a quick absorption rate, Sunflower Oil is rich in linoleic acid and

    vitamins A, B, D, and E. It’s a budget-friendly option that performs well in a variety of

    formulations.

  • Grapeseed Oil: Another fast-absorbing oil, Grapeseed Oil is affordable and lightweight, making it a great addition to your starter collection.

  • Jojoba Oil: While technically a liquid wax, Jojoba Oil is unique and versatile. It mimics the skin’s natural sebum, making it a valuable ingredient for balancing the skin and providing long-lasting moisture.


New Directions Aromatics Link: https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.ca/


4) Humectants


If you plan to make lotions or creams, a humectant is essential for your starting collection.

Humectants help attract and retain moisture in the skin, making your products more hydrating. Both Glycerin and Propanediol 1,3 are excellent choices for beginners.


Glycerin is widely available and affordable, but if used at too high a percentage, it can create a tacky feeling in your formulation. If you're only able to invest in one humectant initially, you might want to start with Propanediol 1,3. It’s a versatile option that provides effective hydration without the potential tackiness associated with higher glycerin concentrations.


Lotioncrafter Link:


Windy Point Soap:


5) Emulsifiers


One common misconception in DIY formulation is that beeswax can be used as an emulsifier. This is incorrect. Beeswax is NOT an emulsifier and has no properties that allow it to bind oil and water. Unfortunately, there is a lot of inaccurate information online that claims otherwise.


Windy Point Link:


Lotioncrafter Link:


6) Preservatives


When formulating products that contain water, using a broad-spectrum preservative is crucial

to prevent microbial growth and ensure product safety. Without a preservative, your formulation is at risk of contamination, which can lead to spoilage and potential harm to users.


One affordable and widely available option is Liquid Germall Plus. It's an effective

broad-spectrum preservative that works well in a variety of formulations. Another excellent

choice is Jeecide CAP-5, which also offers broad-spectrum protection.


When selecting a preservative, make sure it has a wide pH range to ensure compatibility with

different formulations. This will give you more flexibility in your formulations and help you

maintain product stability over time.


Lotioncrafter Link:


Windy Point Soap Link:


7) Waxes


For anhydrous formulations like lip or body balms, waxes are essential for providing structure

and stability. Beeswax is an affordable, beginner-friendly option that works well in various

products. It's particularly useful in lip and body balms due to its soft texture and ease of use.


If you're looking for a vegan alternative, consider Candelilla wax. It's a firmer wax compared to beeswax, making it a great option for those who want a plant-based ingredient. Both beeswax and Candelilla wax are excellent choices for adding consistency and durability to your lip or body balms.


8) Cosmetic Butters


Cosmetic butters are essential if you plan to make anhydrous body butters or lip balms. They

also add richness and texture to creams and lotions. If your budget allows, I recommend starting with two types of butters: a soft butter and a hard butter.


A great soft butter to begin with is Refined Shea Butter. It retains all the benefits of unrefined

shea butter but without the strong nutty/licorice scent, making it more versatile for different

formulations.


For a hard butter, Cocoa Butter is an excellent choice. I personally love the natural smell of

unrefined cocoa butter, but if you're not a fan of the scent, the refined version is a good

alternative. However, due to the recent increase in cocoa butter prices, many formulators are

seeking alternatives. One great option is Kokum Butter, which is readily available from most

small-scale suppliers.


(For more details on cocoa butter alternatives, refer to my blog post: insert link here).


9) Essential Oil or Fragrances


Essential oils add fragrance and therapeutic benefits to your formulations, but they can also be expensive. When starting out, it's best to stick to more affordable options like lavender, tea tree, or peppermint essential oils. Ensure that you’re purchasing pure essential oils, not

ones diluted with carrier oils. These versatile oils can be used in a variety of products, from

creams to balms.


It's important to remember that essential oils are potent chemicals—yes, they are chemicals!

You should never measure essential oils in drops; instead, refer to their individual safety usage rates and measure them in weight (specifically grams). If you’re just getting started and want to keep things simple, you might consider working with a fragrance oil instead of essential oils. This can make the formulation process easier as you learn to research safety usage rates and convert percentages to grams.



When choosing a fragrance, start with a small bottle (usually 30 grams) from your supplier. A

little goes a long way, especially in leave-on products, where you’ll typically use 0.3-0.5%

fragrance.


10) Solubilizer


If you plan to venture into creating, facial toners, room sprays, or even bath bombs, having a

solubilizer is necessary. If you want to start simpler than this is a purchase that can be made at a later date.


Facial Toners: Polysorbate 20

Room Sprays: Polysorbate 20 or Perfumers Alcohol

Bath Bombs: Polysorbate 80


11) Thickeners: Essential for Texture and Stability


In cosmetic formulations, thickeners play a crucial role in enhancing the texture and stability of products, both anhydrous and emulsified. Ingredients like cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol are particularly useful thickeners and co-emulsifiers that you'll want to have in your toolkit.


Cetyl Alcohol: This fatty alcohol acts as a thickening agent and emollient in various

skincare and hair care products. It helps to soften the skin and provide a smooth, creamy

texture to lotions and creams.

Cetearyl Alcohol: A combination of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, cetearyl alcohol is

excellent for thickening and stabilizing emulsion formulations. It also enhances the feel of

products, making them more luxurious and easy to apply.


Both of these alcohols are non-irritating and provide additional benefits such as improving the spreadability and increasing the viscosity of your products. They can be used in everything from moisturizers and conditioners to styling products and makeup, making them versatile components in both professional and DIY cosmetic formulations.


Using thickeners like cetyl and cetearyl alcohol not only improves the aesthetic qualities of your products but also helps them maintain their structure and consistency, ensuring a more stable and effective product.

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