What Products Should You Start Making First?

When embarking on your journey into cosmetic formulation, one of the most common questions is: Where should I start? I always recommend beginning with anhydrous products—formulations that do not contain a water component. Anhydrous products are not only simpler but are also safer to make for beginners. These products consist of oils, butters, waxes, and other lipid-based ingredients, all of which do not support the growth of bacteria, yeast, or mold. This eliminates the need for water-soluble preservatives, which are essential in formulations containing water.

But the advantages of starting with anhydrous products go far beyond just safety. Working with these formulations provides a fantastic opportunity to familiarize yourself with different oils, butters, and waxes—commonly referred to as lipids—and how they behave on the skin. Understanding the properties of these ingredients will give you a significant edge when you begin incorporating water into your formulations. Let’s dive deeper into why anhydrous products are ideal for beginners, and explore some of the key ingredients you’ll be working with.

Why Start with Anhydrous Products?

1. Microbial Safety: Since anhydrous products do not contain water, there’s no environment for bacteria, yeast, or mold to grow. This makes them safer to make at home and reduces the need for a broad-spectrum preservative system in most cases.

2. Formulation Simplicity: Anhydrous products are typically easier to formulate because they consist of oils, butters, and waxes, without the need to manage complex emulsions or incorporate preservatives.

3. Understanding Lipids: By starting with these products, you gain valuable insight into how different oils and butters feel on the skin, their absorption rates, and their unique benefits. This knowledge is crucial when you progress to more complex formulations, such as emulsions (products containing both water and oil).

4. Wide Variety of Products: There is a vast range of anhydrous products you can create, including lip balms, body balms, facial oils, whipped body butters, and salves. These types of formulations are ideal for experimenting with different combinations of oils, butters, and waxes.

Let’s take a look at some popular anhydrous products and the oils and butters that can form the backbone of these formulations.

Types of Anhydrous Products You Can Start With

Lip Balms: A great first project, lip balms are easy to make and require minimal ingredients. Common ingredients include beeswax, shea butter, and oils such as jojoba or coconut oil.

Body Balms and Salves: These thicker formulations are designed to provide long-lasting moisture and protection to the skin. They often feature a combination of waxes like beeswax or candelilla wax, along with rich butters such as cocoa butter and nourishing oils like sweet almond or olive oil.

Whipped Body Butters: These luxurious, airy products are made by whipping together oils and butters to create a light, fluffy texture. Butters like shea and mango butter are popular choices, along with fast-absorbing oils like jojoba or grapeseed oil.

Facial Oils: These are blends of carrier oils specifically chosen for their lightness and skin benefits. Jojoba oil, rosehip seed oil, and squalane are all popular for facial formulations due to their light texture and skin-loving properties.

Understanding Your Lipids: Carrier Oils and Butters

When working with anhydrous products, you’ll encounter a wide range of carrier oils and butters, each with its own unique properties. Knowing how each one feels on the skin, how quickly it absorbs, and the specific benefits it offers is key to creating effective formulations. Here are some of the most commonly used oils and butters for beginners:

Carrier Oils:

1. Jojoba Oil: Actually a liquid wax, jojoba oil closely mimics the skin’s natural sebum, making it a great moisturizer. It’s lightweight, non-greasy, and absorbs quickly, making it a fantastic choice for facial oils or light body oils.

2. Sweet Almond Oil: A gentle, nourishing oil that’s rich in fatty acids, sweet almond oil is ideal for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It has a medium absorption rate and works well in a variety of products, from body butters to lip balms.

3. Coconut Oil: Known for its solid consistency at room temperature, coconut oil is deeply moisturizing and commonly used in body butters and balms. However, it can feel greasy on the skin, so it’s best blended with other oils for a balanced texture.

4. Rosehip Seed Oil: This luxurious oil is packed with antioxidants and essential fatty acids, making it a great choice for anti-aging formulations and facial oils. Rosehip seed oil absorbs quickly and leaves the skin feeling soft without a heavy residue.

5. Grapeseed Oil: A lightweight, fast-absorbing oil, grapeseed oil is perfect for oily or acne-prone skin. It is also rich in antioxidants, making it a great addition to facial oils or lightweight body oils.

Butters:

1. Shea Butter: One of the most popular cosmetic butters, shea butter is rich, creamy, and deeply moisturizing. It is well-tolerated by most skin types and can be used in a wide range of formulations, from body butters to lip balms. Refined shea butter has a neutral scent, while unrefined shea has a strong, nutty aroma.

2. Cocoa Butter: A firm butter with a delicious natural scent, cocoa butter is commonly used in balms and body butters to create a protective barrier on the skin. It is particularly helpful for dry or cracked skin and gives formulations a thick, creamy texture.

3. Mango Butter: This butter is slightly firmer than shea but has a lighter feel on the skin. Mango butter is highly moisturizing and provides a smoother, silkier finish, making it ideal for products like whipped body butters and facial balms.

4. Kokum Butter: A harder butter that is less greasy than shea or cocoa butter, Kokum butter is a fantastic alternative when you want a lighter feel in your formulations. It is highly moisturizing and known for its ability to restore skin elasticity.

Broad-Spectrum Preservation for Water-Exposed Anhydrous Products

While most anhydrous products do not require preservatives due to their lack of water, there is one exception: when the product is likely to be exposed to water. For example, if you’re making a sugar scrub for use in the shower, water can introduce bacteria, mold, or yeast into the product. In these cases, you will need to incorporate a broad-spectrum, oil-soluble preservative like Phenonip to protect your formulation.

Starting with anhydrous formulations provides a solid foundation for new formulators. Not only are these products safer and easier to make, but they also give you invaluable experience with the oils, butters, and waxes that form the building blocks of more advanced products. By understanding how these ingredients feel on the skin and how they interact with one another, you will be well-equipped to tackle more complex formulations down the road.

Take the time to experiment with different carrier oils and butters, and don’t be afraid to tweak your formulas to achieve the perfect balance of texture, absorption, and skin benefits. Starting with anhydrous products will not only build your confidence but also give you a deeper understanding of the art and science of cosmetic formulation.

Essential Oils: Essential Knowledge for Formulators

In the world of natural beauty and DIY cosmetic formulation, essential oils are often considered the holy grail of ingredients. They are natural substances obtained through various physical and natural processing methods, such as expression, distillation, and extraction. However, the widespread use of essential oils in formulation is fraught with misconceptions, especially for new formulators who are eager to make products free from synthetic chemicals. As a formulator, understanding the complexities behind essential oils is not just recommended, it’s essential.

The Misconception of "Chemical-Free" Formulating

Many new formulators come into the space with a desire to create products "without all the

nasty chemicals." This mindset often stems from a mistrust of large corporations and a lack of understanding of ingredient labels. However, it’s critical to remember that everything, including essential oils, is made up of chemicals. While essential oils are derived from plants, they are potent chemical substances that should be handled with care and precision. The phrase “chemical-free” is a myth—essential oils are chemicals, and sometimes very potent ones.

Why Drops Don't Work: Essential Oils and Accurate Measurement

One of the most common errors seen in DIY recipes online is the casual instruction to "add 10 drops of your favorite essential oil." Essential oils are far too concentrated to be measured in drops. Each drop can vary in size based on the oil’s viscosity and the dropper used, leading to inconsistent and potentially dangerous formulations.

For safe and effective formulation, essential oils must be written in percentages and converted to grams. This ensures that you are using the correct amount based on the total weight of your formulation. Measuring essential oils by weight rather than drops allows for precision and consistency, two key factors in creating a product that is both effective and safe.

Safety First: Potential for Irritation and Allergic Reactions

Essential oils, though natural, have a high potential to cause skin irritation, allergic reactions, or even sensitization. In fact, they are more likely to cause reactions than many synthetic

fragrances, simply due to their concentrated nature. It’s important to remember that just

because something is natural doesn’t mean it’s safe for everyone or in every formulation.

Essential Oils and Special Populations: Pregnancy and Children

When it comes to using essential oils during pregnancy, extra caution must be taken. Pregnant women should use essential oils in concentrations no higher than 0.5% (total) in any product, and only pregnancy-safe oils should be considered. Certain essential oils, like lavender, chamomile, and ylang-ylang, are often regarded as safer options, but it’s always best to consult with a healthcare provider before use.

The same goes for babies and young children. Essential oil use in babies and children under

four years old should be strictly limited to those that are child-safe, such as chamomile or

lavender, and used in extremely low concentrations. Essential oils can be very irritating to their sensitive skin and should be approached with caution.

Understanding Chemical Composition and Safety Usage Rates

Each essential oil has a completely different chemical composition and, therefore, its own

individual safety usage rate. For example, some oils like lavender are generally mild and can be used in higher concentrations, while others, such as clove or cinnamon, are highly potent and should be used sparingly.

It’s crucial to research each essential oil’s safety profile before incorporating it into a product.

Formulators should always consult reputable sources, such as the International Fragrance

Association (IFRA), to determine the appropriate usage rate based on the type of product being created. The IFRA guidelines will also help you determine if the product is leave-on or rinse-off and which part of the body the product will be applied to.

Leave-On vs. Rinse-Off: Why This Matters for Essential Oil Use

The IFRA categorizes products into different groups, such as leave-on and rinse-off products.

Leave-on products (such as lotions or balms) require stricter limits on essential oil usage due to prolonged skin contact. In contrast, rinse-off products (like body washes or shampoos) may allow for slightly higher concentrations because the exposure time is much shorter.

Understanding these differences is key to ensuring your formulations are both safe and

effective.

The Importance of the Cool Down Phase

In emulsion-based formulations, essential oils must be added during the cool-down phase,

specifically when the mixture has cooled to below 40°C (104°F). Adding essential oils to a

formula at a higher temperature can cause them to degrade, reducing their efficacy and

potentially altering the final product. Careful attention to this step ensures that the essential oils retain their therapeutic properties and that the formulation remains stable.

Pairing Essential Oils with Antioxidants

Given the volatile nature of essential oils, it is advisable to use them in conjunction with an

antioxidant, such as Vitamin E (Tocopherol MT-50). Antioxidants help preserve the integrity of

the essential oils by preventing oxidation, which can cause them to lose their effectiveness and potentially lead to the formation of skin-irritating byproducts. Including an antioxidant in your formulation helps maintain product stability and extends shelf life.

Key Takeaways for Formulators

● Essential oils are chemicals and should be handled with care, just like any other

potent ingredient.

● Measure essential oils by weight, not drops to ensure accuracy and consistency.

● Consult the IFRA guidelines to determine appropriate usage rates based on the

product type and application.

● Use caution when formulating for pregnant women and children, and always opt for

safe, mild oils at low concentrations. (maximum of 0.5%)

● Essential Oils generally shouldn’t be used at higher than 1%

● Essential oils must be added during the cool-down phase (40c and below) of

emulsions to maintain their potency and efficacy.

● Pair essential oils with antioxidants to protect against oxidation and extend product

shelf life.

● Essential Oils can expire

By approaching essential oils with respect and scientific understanding, formulators can create products that are not only effective but also safe for their intended use.

To learn more about Essential Oils and the IFRA Categories of Use click here for part 2.

HLB- A Deeper Look + Application

In response to yesterday's question-

" Hi, Kennece, apparently with "natural" emulsifiers there is no longer a need to calculate HLB value, like in the past. Provided the correct type of emulsifier is used, example O/W or W/O. Do you agree because if it is still relevant then it's important. I don't want to overlook it? To help me understand further, if a few oils are used, what happens to the HLB value then? Thank you for this deeper dive into Cetyl Alcohol.

The short answer to this question is - yes!

Whether using a natural or synthetic emulsifier, the HLB value is still relevant. HLB is not determined by a materials origin or processing it is determined by solubility. I am not sure if you read something or perhaps watched a video, but perhaps it is a reference to homemakers or DIYers having such a small selection of raw materials available to them, most emulsifiers being what is referred to as "All-In-One" emulsifiers. In such case, there is no need for a formulator to create an emulsification system, using the HLB method.

HLB - A Deeper Look

When browsing online for new ingredients, you’ve likely come across something called HLB, often accompanied by a number. Maybe you’ve read terms like "High HLB" or "Low HLB" while learning about the ingredients themselves. I know many DIYers aren't interested in diving into the science behind the raw materials we work with, but for those who are, you’re in for an insightful read.

To be completely transparent, I hated science in high school. In fact, I nearly failed it! I had a borderline mark of 50%. When my father found out, he wasn’t having it. I remember him locking me in my room with a textbook and a stack of lined paper, instructing me to rewrite the entire book over and over again until exams. I grew up in a time when the internet wasn’t at our fingertips, households didn’t have computers, and the TV shut off at a certain time of night. So, I wrote that textbook out, sat for the exam, and managed to get a 78%. I remember it like it was yesterday, but even then, I still didn’t enjoy science.

When I first started formulating, I didn’t associate making products with science. For me, it was like cooking or DIYing. However, with every failed product, I wanted to understand why it didn’t work—or, in the rare cases when it did, why it worked. When I started formal education in cosmetic chemistry, I was terrified. Honestly, I was. I was over 30, hadn’t been in school for years, and couldn’t recall much from those high school science and chemistry classes. But my love for formulating—that burning desire to understand the ‘why’—made science not only tolerable, but also interesting and fun.

There are many chemists with far more experience than I have, and I still find myself questioning certain processes, but the more I learn, the more things make sense. Eventually, it all becomes second nature. Hopefully, after reading this article, if you’ve ever stared at that HLB number and wondered what it meant, it will finally click!

Creating a Stable Emulsion Using the HLB System: A Step-by-Step Example

When formulating at home—whether you're DIYing or running a small business—the selection of materials available on a small scale is unfortunately limited compared to what’s available in large-scale production. Most small-scale suppliers carry what we refer to as "all-in-one emulsifiers." Occasionally, you may need to incorporate a co-emulsifier to stabilize certain materials, such as OliveM 1000, but it's rare that you'll need to create a stable emulsification system from scratch. I assume that suppliers offer these "all-in-one" emulsifiers to make it easier for DIYers to create stable emulsions.

Given this limited availability, I was somewhat restricted in the materials I could choose for today’s example. However, the Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance (HLB) system, developed by William Griffin in the 1940s, helps us determine which emulsifier is best suited for the oil phase of an emulsion.

What is the HLB System?

Each emulsifier consists of two parts: a hydrophilic (water-attracting) head, typically made up of a water-soluble functional group, and a lipophilic (oil-attracting) tail, often derived from a fatty acid or fatty alcohol.

The HLB system operates on the principle that emulsifiers with higher solubility in water are more suitable for oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions, while those with higher solubility in oil are better for water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions. In simpler terms:

• Higher HLB values mean the molecule is more hydrophilic and water-soluble, ideal for O/W emulsions.

• Lower HLB values indicate a more lipophilic and fat-soluble molecule, suitable for W/O emulsions.

The HLB System in Action: An Example

For this example, I’ve chosen two emulsifiers: Laureth-23 (HLB 16.9) and Sorbitan Olivate (HLB 4.7). These materials are readily available on a small scale for anyone interested in cross-referencing the HLB numbers or reading more about them.

This example is purely for educational purposes—I don’t recommend making this formula, as the lipids were chosen randomly to simplify the explanation.

Our Simple Formula:

• Shea Butter 4% (HLB 7)

• Jojoba Oil 4% (HLB 6)

• Babassu Oil 4% (HLB 7)

• Plum Oil 4% (HLB 7)

• Cetearyl Alcohol 4% (HLB 15.5)Note: Cetearyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol that helps thicken emulsions and improves skin feel, but for our purposes, it’s considered part of the lipid phase.

• Distilled Water 70.5%

• Liquid Germall Plus 0.5%

The total lipid phase in this formulation is 20%.

Step 1: Calculate the % Contribution of Each Oil in the Lipid Phase

To determine how much each oil contributes to the lipid phase, divide the percentage of each oil by the total percentage of the oil phase:

• Shea Butter: 4% ÷ 20% = 0.20

• Jojoba Oil: 4% ÷ 20% = 0.20

• Babassu Oil: 4% ÷ 20% = 0.20

• Plum Oil: 4% ÷ 20% = 0.20

• Cetearyl Alcohol: 4% ÷ 20% = 0.20

Add them up, and you’ll always get 100%—this acts as a way to double-check your calculations.

Step 2: Multiply Each Oil's Contribution by Its HLB Value

Next, we take the amount each lipid contributes and multiply it by its HLB value:

• Shea Butter: 0.20 x HLB 7 = 1.4

• Jojoba Oil: 0.20 x HLB 6 = 1.2

• Babassu Oil: 0.20 x HLB 7 = 1.4

• Plum Oil: 0.20 x HLB 7 = 1.4

• Cetearyl Alcohol: 0.20 x HLB 15.5 = 3.1

The total HLB for the lipid phase is 7.3.

Step 3: Select Emulsifiers to Match the Lipid Phase HLB

Now, let’s choose our emulsifiers. We’ve selected:

• Laureth-23 (HLB 16.9)

• Sorbitan Olivate (HLB 4.7)

Our goal is to create a combined emulsifier system that closely matches the total HLB of our lipid phase, which is 7.3.

Step 4: Calculate the Emulsifier Ratios

We’ll balance the emulsifiers to match the HLB 7.3 requirement. Let’s break down the math:

• Laureth-23:0.25 x 16.9 = 4.22

• Sorbitan Olivate:0.75 x 4.7 = 3.52

When added together, the total HLB is 7.74, which is close enough to our target of 7.3.

Step 5: Determine the Percentage of Each Emulsifier in the Formula

We’ve decided to use a total of 5% emulsifier in the formulation, to ensure stability. Now, let’s break down how much of each emulsifier to include:

• Laureth-23:0.25 x 0.05 = 0.0125 (or 1.25%)

• Sorbitan Olivate:0.75 x 0.05 = 0.0375 (or 3.75%)

Together, this gives us 5%, which matches our target.

The Final Formula:

• Shea Butter 4%

• Jojoba Oil 4%

• Babassu Oil 4%

• Plum Oil 4%

• Cetearyl Alcohol 4%

• Laureth-23 1.25%

• Sorbitan Olivate 3.75%

• Distilled Water 69.5%

• Germaben II 1%

  
  

By carefully calculating the HLB values of our oils and emulsifiers, we’ve created a stable emulsion system that should work well within this formulation. This exercise demonstrates the importance of understanding the HLB system when working with a wide variety of emulsifiers and oils, especially for those looking to refine their formulation skills.