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Phase

% w/w

Trade Name/ INCI Name

Supplier

CAS Number

A

5%

Refined Shea Butter

Windy Point Soap


A

2%

Sweet Almond Oil

New Directions Aromatic


A

3%

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides 

Formulator Sample Shop


A

4%

Sunflower Oil

New Directions Aromatic


A

8%

OliveM 1000

Windy Point Soap


A

2.5%

Ritamulse SCG

Voyageur Soap & Candle


A

0.5%

Beeswax

New Directions Aromatic












B

62.7%

Distilled Water



B

3%

Aloe Vera Juice

New Directions Aromatic


B

0.5%

Allantoin

Windy Point Soap







B(2)

5%

Glycerin

Windy Point Soap


B(2)

0.3%

Siligel

MiniChemist












C

1%

Geogard ECT

Windy Point Soap


C

1%

Bamboo Extract

Windy Point Soap


C

1%

Manuka Honey Extract

Windy Point Soap


C

0.5%

Oatmeal Milk & Honey Fragrance

Fizzy Fairy

































q.s

pH Buffer

pH Adjuster

N/A


100%

Total




METHOD

1.Weigh PHASE A and set aside

2. Weigh PHASE B and set aside

3. Create a slurry with PHASE B(2) 

4. Pour PHASE B(2) into PHASE B and still thoroughly.

5. Heat PHASE A and PHASE B simultaneously until BOTH phases have reached 70-80c USE A THERMOMETER!!!! Temperatures are critical.  When scaling up to over 1200 grams it is important to heat and hold for 20 minutes!  Make sure to cover your water phase with plastic wrap to avoid evaporation.

6.Remove from heat and pour PHASE A into PHASE B 

7.Homogenize with a stick blender or homogenizer.

8.Place in fridge to cool!  When cooled below 40c (USE A THERMOMETER!) remove.

9. Add PHASE C and mix THORUGHLY! Adjust pH if necessary to 5.0-5.5

 Package 24hrs later in a bottle with disc cap.

Final pH required: 5.0-5.5


Phase

% w/w

Trade Name/ INCI Name

Supplier

CAS Number

A

4%

Refined Shea Butter

New Directions Aromatic


A

3%

Mango Butter 

New Directions Aromatic


A

3%

Caprylic/ Capric Triglycerides MCT

Formulator Sample Shop


A

6%

Sunflower Oil

New Directions Aromatic


A

7.5%

Emulsifying Wax NF

Soap + More


A

3%

Cetyl Alcohol

Windy Point Soap












B

58.6

Distilled Water



B

5%

Aloe Vera Juice ( Cosmetic Grade)

New Directions Aromatic


B

2%

Glycerin

Windy Point Soap


B

2%

Propanediol 1,3

Windy Point Soap


B

0.5%

Allantoin

Windy Point Soap












C

0.5%

Liquid Germall Plus

Windy Point Soap


C

0.4%

Fragrance of your choice

Fizzy Fairy


C

2%

Chamomile Liquid Extract (Water-Soluble)

Windy Point Soap


C

1%

Green Tea Extract (Water Soluble)

Windy  Point Soap


C

1.5%

Dimethicone 350

Windy Point Soap


















q.s

pH Buffer

pH Adjuster

N/A


100%

Total




METHOD

1.Weigh PHASE A in a heat-proof glass beaker or bowl.

2. Weigh PHASE B in a heat-proof glass beaker or bowl.

3. Heat BOTH phases simultaneously until both phases have reached 70-80c (USE A THERMOMETER, temperatures are critical!!)

4. Remove from heat and pour PHASE A into PHASE B, and stick blend until homogenous.

5. Place in fridge to cool, stir occasionally to keep a smooth consistency. If you have an overhead stirrer you can put it on medium and let the product cool that way.

6. Remove when the entire mixture has cooled below 40c. (use a thermometer, temperatures are critical!!)

7.Weigh PHASE C and add it to the product.  Stir thoroughly!  Make sure it is mixed throughout the entire product.

8.Check and adjust pH

9.REFER TO NOTES

Final pH required: 5.0-5.5

NOTES::  


I strongly advise against purchasing ingredients on Amazon, unless it’s from Making Cosmetics or TKB Trading storefront.


I have included my suppliers for you to cross-check INCI + CAS# to source the materials globally.


 *** Please remember emulsifiers with the same INCI but different CAS# can result in a different viscosity of your final product.*****


This formula will remain stable to 40c/104F it is not stable at temperatures higher than that!! 


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Sanitizing lab equipment and workspaces is crucial for maintaining the integrity of cosmetic formulations and ensuring product safety. One of the most commonly used sanitizers in cosmetic labs is isopropyl alcohol (IPA). However, there is often confusion about whether 70% or 99% IPA is more effective for this purpose. This blog post explores why 70% isopropyl alcohol is typically the better choice for sanitizing in a cosmetic lab setting.


Understanding Isopropyl Alcohol

Isopropyl alcohol is a versatile disinfectant and antiseptic used in various industries, including cosmetics. It is available in different concentrations, with 70% and 99% being the most commonly used in lab settings. The percentage indicates the concentration of isopropyl alcohol in the solution, with the remainder being water and other impurities.


Why 70% Isopropyl Alcohol is More Effective


1. Optimal Microbial Killing

The effectiveness of isopropyl alcohol as a disinfectant is influenced by its concentration. Studies have shown that 70% IPA is more effective at killing microorganisms compared to higher concentrations. This is because 70% IPA has the right balance of alcohol and water to penetrate microbial cell walls and denature proteins effectively. The water content in 70% IPA helps in the alcohol's absorption into the cells, leading to a more effective microbial kill.


2. Enhanced Penetration

Alcohols work by denaturing proteins and disrupting cell membranes. At 70% concentration, the water content aids in this process by allowing the alcohol to penetrate more deeply into microbial cells. Higher concentrations, like 99%, can cause rapid coagulation of proteins on the surface of microorganisms, creating a protective layer that inhibits further alcohol penetration and reduces its effectiveness.


3. Reduced Evaporation

70% IPA has a slower evaporation rate compared to 99% IPA. This slower evaporation allows the alcohol to remain in contact with surfaces and equipment for a longer period, increasing the contact time and effectiveness of the disinfection process. In contrast, the rapid evaporation of 99% IPA can reduce its disinfecting action and lead to uneven sanitization.


4. Less Risk of Damage

The use of 99% IPA can be harsh on certain materials commonly found in cosmetic lab equipment, such as plastics and rubber. The high concentration of alcohol can cause these materials to degrade over time, affecting the longevity and functionality of the equipment. 70% IPA is less aggressive and reduces the risk of damage to lab surfaces and equipment, making it a safer choice for routine cleaning and sanitizing.


5. Cost-Effectiveness

70% IPA is often more cost-effective than 99% IPA. Because it is used at a lower concentration, it tends to be less expensive per unit volume while still providing effective sanitization. This makes it a more economical option for labs that require large quantities of sanitizing agents.


How to Use 70% Isopropyl Alcohol Effectively

To maximize the effectiveness of 70% IPA, follow these guidelines:

  • Ensure Proper Coverage: Apply IPA to all surfaces and equipment thoroughly, making sure to cover every part that needs sanitization.

  • Allow Sufficient Contact Time: Let the alcohol sit on surfaces for at least 30 seconds to ensure effective microbial killing. Avoid wiping it off too soon.

  • Use Clean, Lint-Free Cloths: When wiping surfaces, use clean, lint-free cloths to avoid introducing contaminants.

  • Store Properly: Keep IPA in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight to maintain its effectiveness.

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