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    • Sep 6
    • 1 min read

Cetyl Alcohol

INCI

Cetyl Alcohol


WHAT DOES IT DO AND WHY DO WE USE IT?

Cetyl Alcohol is a versatile fatty alcohol used primarily as an emulsion thickener and

opacifier. It enhances the viscosity, body, texture, and skin feel of lotions and creams,

providing a velvety touch. This ingredient is beneficial for its emollient properties, as it

absorbs into the epidermis to soften and lubricate the skin. It’s also used to increase the

melting point of anhydrous body butters, scrubs, lotion bars, and balms.



SOLUBILITY: Oil Soluble

USAGE RATE: 1-30%

CHARGE: Non-Ionic

APPEARANCE: White or Off White pellets.

ODOR: Nothing to note.

FORM: Waxy Pellets

PH VALUE: N/A

MELT RANGE: 49c (120F)

NATURE STATUS: Permitted in Natural Cosmetics

HLB VALUE: 15.5

STORAGE: You can store Cetyl Alcohol in a Zip Lock bag or a Tupperware container, and it should be kept in a cool, dry place.


BENEFITS: Cetyl Alcohol is an excellent addition to any formulator's ingredient inventory due to its versatility across a broad range of formulations. It serves as an effective thickener, often preferred over waxes like beeswax or candelilla because it enhances the texture without imparting a waxy feel. Even a small percentage can significantly increase the viscosity of a product. Additionally, Cetyl Alcohol is beneficial in anhydrous body butters, where it helps extend the melting time, making the product more stable in warmer conditions.


WHAT WE CAN MAKE WITH IT

● Lotions/Creams

● Body Butters

● Balms

● Sugar Scrubs

● Hair Conditioners


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    • Sep 5
    • 6 min read

Ingredients To Start With: A Beginners List

Getting Started with Affordable Ingredients: A Guide for New Formulators

When you're just starting out in cosmetic formulation, it can be tempting to turn to Amazon for your ingredient purchases. (For more information, please refer to my post titled Buying

Ingredients on Amazon.) While this is a common approach, it's essential to understand that

there are better options available, particularly through reliable small-scale suppliers.


As you browse these suppliers' websites, you may find yourself overwhelmed by the sheer

variety of ingredients. Many of them sound appealing, and it’s easy to get excited about

incorporating exotic oils and costly extracts into your formulations. However, I strongly

recommend starting with affordable, accessible ingredients until you've gained more experience in formulation.


Every new formulator makes mistakes—it's a natural part of the learning process. But making a mistake with expensive ingredients can be incredibly frustrating and costly. By focusing on more affordable options, you can experiment freely without worrying about breaking the bank.


To help you get started, I’ve put together a list of affordable ingredients that are perfect for

beginning your formulation journey:


1) Distilled or Deionized Water


When formulating products that contain water, it's crucial to use distilled or deionized water. Tap or spring water contains impurities that can compromise the stability and safety of your

products. Distilled or deionized water is readily available at supermarkets or drugstores and

should always be your go-to choice for water-based formulations.


2) Carrier Oils


Carrier oils are a staple in both anhydrous and emulsified products, providing nourishment and aiding in the absorption of active ingredients. Start with a small selection of affordable oils, and as you grow as a formulator, you can expand your collection. Here are a few great options:


  • Sweet Almond Oil: Affordable and versatile, Sweet Almond Oil has a medium

    absorption rate and is rich in Vitamin D. It’s an excellent choice for lotions, creams, body butters, and balms.

  • Sunflower Oil: With a quick absorption rate, Sunflower Oil is rich in linoleic acid and

    vitamins A, B, D, and E. It’s a budget-friendly option that performs well in a variety of

    formulations.

  • Grapeseed Oil: Another fast-absorbing oil, Grapeseed Oil is affordable and lightweight, making it a great addition to your starter collection.

  • Jojoba Oil: While technically a liquid wax, Jojoba Oil is unique and versatile. It mimics the skin’s natural sebum, making it a valuable ingredient for balancing the skin and providing long-lasting moisture.


New Directions Aromatics Link: https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.ca/


4) Humectants


If you plan to make lotions or creams, a humectant is essential for your starting collection.

Humectants help attract and retain moisture in the skin, making your products more hydrating. Both Glycerin and Propanediol 1,3 are excellent choices for beginners.


Glycerin is widely available and affordable, but if used at too high a percentage, it can create a tacky feeling in your formulation. If you're only able to invest in one humectant initially, you might want to start with Propanediol 1,3. It’s a versatile option that provides effective hydration without the potential tackiness associated with higher glycerin concentrations.


Lotioncrafter Link:


Windy Point Soap:


5) Emulsifiers


One common misconception in DIY formulation is that beeswax can be used as an emulsifier. This is incorrect. Beeswax is NOT an emulsifier and has no properties that allow it to bind oil and water. Unfortunately, there is a lot of inaccurate information online that claims otherwise.


Windy Point Link:


Lotioncrafter Link:


6) Preservatives


When formulating products that contain water, using a broad-spectrum preservative is crucial

to prevent microbial growth and ensure product safety. Without a preservative, your formulation is at risk of contamination, which can lead to spoilage and potential harm to users.


One affordable and widely available option is Liquid Germall Plus. It's an effective

broad-spectrum preservative that works well in a variety of formulations. Another excellent

choice is Jeecide CAP-5, which also offers broad-spectrum protection.


When selecting a preservative, make sure it has a wide pH range to ensure compatibility with

different formulations. This will give you more flexibility in your formulations and help you

maintain product stability over time.


Lotioncrafter Link:


Windy Point Soap Link:


7) Waxes


For anhydrous formulations like lip or body balms, waxes are essential for providing structure

and stability. Beeswax is an affordable, beginner-friendly option that works well in various

products. It's particularly useful in lip and body balms due to its soft texture and ease of use.


If you're looking for a vegan alternative, consider Candelilla wax. It's a firmer wax compared to beeswax, making it a great option for those who want a plant-based ingredient. Both beeswax and Candelilla wax are excellent choices for adding consistency and durability to your lip or body balms.


8) Cosmetic Butters


Cosmetic butters are essential if you plan to make anhydrous body butters or lip balms. They

also add richness and texture to creams and lotions. If your budget allows, I recommend starting with two types of butters: a soft butter and a hard butter.


A great soft butter to begin with is Refined Shea Butter. It retains all the benefits of unrefined

shea butter but without the strong nutty/licorice scent, making it more versatile for different

formulations.


For a hard butter, Cocoa Butter is an excellent choice. I personally love the natural smell of

unrefined cocoa butter, but if you're not a fan of the scent, the refined version is a good

alternative. However, due to the recent increase in cocoa butter prices, many formulators are

seeking alternatives. One great option is Kokum Butter, which is readily available from most

small-scale suppliers.


(For more details on cocoa butter alternatives, refer to my blog post: insert link here).


9) Essential Oil or Fragrances


Essential oils add fragrance and therapeutic benefits to your formulations, but they can also be expensive. When starting out, it's best to stick to more affordable options like lavender, tea tree, or peppermint essential oils. Ensure that you’re purchasing pure essential oils, not

ones diluted with carrier oils. These versatile oils can be used in a variety of products, from

creams to balms.


It's important to remember that essential oils are potent chemicals—yes, they are chemicals!

You should never measure essential oils in drops; instead, refer to their individual safety usage rates and measure them in weight (specifically grams). If you’re just getting started and want to keep things simple, you might consider working with a fragrance oil instead of essential oils. This can make the formulation process easier as you learn to research safety usage rates and convert percentages to grams.



When choosing a fragrance, start with a small bottle (usually 30 grams) from your supplier. A

little goes a long way, especially in leave-on products, where you’ll typically use 0.3-0.5%

fragrance.


10) Solubilizer


If you plan to venture into creating, facial toners, room sprays, or even bath bombs, having a

solubilizer is necessary. If you want to start simpler than this is a purchase that can be made at a later date.


● Facial Toners: Polysorbate 20

● Room Sprays: Polysorbate 20 or Perfumers Alcohol

● Bath Bombs: Polysorbate 80


11) Thickeners: Essential for Texture and Stability


In cosmetic formulations, thickeners play a crucial role in enhancing the texture and stability of products, both anhydrous and emulsified. Ingredients like cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol are particularly useful thickeners and co-emulsifiers that you'll want to have in your toolkit.


●Cetyl Alcohol: This fatty alcohol acts as a thickening agent and emollient in various

skincare and hair care products. It helps to soften the skin and provide a smooth, creamy

texture to lotions and creams.

● Cetearyl Alcohol: A combination of cetyl and stearyl alcohols, cetearyl alcohol is

excellent for thickening and stabilizing emulsion formulations. It also enhances the feel of

products, making them more luxurious and easy to apply.


Both of these alcohols are non-irritating and provide additional benefits such as improving the spreadability and increasing the viscosity of your products. They can be used in everything from moisturizers and conditioners to styling products and makeup, making them versatile components in both professional and DIY cosmetic formulations.


Using thickeners like cetyl and cetearyl alcohol not only improves the aesthetic qualities of your products but also helps them maintain their structure and consistency, ensuring a more stable and effective product.

11 views0 comments
    • Sep 5
    • 1 min read

BUYING INGREDIENTS FROM AMAZON

I strongly advise against ordering ingredients from Amazon, unless they are from a

reputable supplier (Making Cosmetics, TKB Trading) that happens to have an Amazon

storefront.


Reasons:

1) Quality: They are rarely industry quality. In the case of Essential Oils, they are often

diluted with carrier oils. This cut costs to make them affordable. In some cases they are

also partially EO/FO combos, again to cut cost! Resulting in a low-quality material for you to

use in your formulations.


2) Storage: A lot of ingredients are heat-sensitive. Amazon doesn’t know what is and what

isn’t. Warehouses can get hot and comprise the chemical structure of a material.


3) Paperwork: Each ingredient should come with documentation to support it. If you are

selling products, it’s required by law for you to have the necessary paperwork for each raw

material that is used in the product you are selling.


4) Cost: Ingredients on Amazon are generally a lot more expensive then they are at

small-scale ingredient suppliers. Paying more, for lower quality, isn’t the best personal or

business decision.


Amazon is fantastic for equipment! You can get some great deals on decent equipment on

Amazon.


NOTE: There are always a few exceptions to every rule. However, in general, reliable

small-scale suppliers are a much better option for sourcing your ingredients. While I could

apply for affiliate programs and recommend ingredients from Amazon for a small

commission, I've chosen not to do so. Instead, I believe in recommending and using quality,

industry-standard materials rather than focusing on making commission money.

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