When starting to make your own skincare products, it’s easy to get caught up in the
desire to use natural and safe ingredients. If I had to estimate, I’d say that upwards of
99% of people—myself included—begin this journey because they’ve lost trust in
mass-produced products or have come across alarming information about ingredients
online. Unfortunately, there’s a lot of misinformation out there, and many of us start
formulating with a skewed understanding of what’s safe and effective.
There are even apps designed to “analyze” ingredients in skincare products by
scanning a barcode. However, these apps often miss the mark by not considering
important factors like the percentage of the ingredient used or how it's applied. Both of
these factors drastically influence whether an ingredient is safe or harmful.
While I love and regularly use natural ingredients in my formulations, I’ve learned that
not all synthetics are bad—and sometimes they can be safer than natural alternatives.
There’s a lot more risk involved in DIY natural skincare than many people realize,
especially when beginners make some common mistakes. Below are some key errors
that new formulators often make and why they should be avoided.
1. Formulating with Food Ingredients
Using food-based ingredients in skincare formulations might seem appealing, especially
when you see items like coconut oil or honey in DIY recipes online. However, it’s
important to recognize that cosmetic-grade ingredients are processed differently than
food ingredients. Cosmetic-grade ingredients are preserved, tested for contamination,
and designed for topical use, whereas food ingredients are not.
While some big brands claim to use fresh fruits or other natural ingredients in their
products, they have the advantage of professional labs and testing to ensure the
product remains safe. Home formulators don’t have access to that level of testing,
meaning the risk of contamination is high when using raw food ingredients. In short,
mixing food with your skincare products at home can expose you (and anyone else
using your products) to potentially harmful contaminants.
2. Using Baking Soda in Skincare
Baking soda is a common DIY ingredient, often used in homemade deodorants or
exfoliants. However, it’s far too harsh for the skin. Baking soda has a high pH, which
can disrupt the skin’s natural pH balance, leading to irritation, rashes, or even chemical
burns. Over time, its abrasive texture can also damage the skin’s protective barrier,
making it more prone to acne, sensitivity, and other issues.
While it’s widely used for other household purposes, baking soda should not be
included in your skincare routine.
3. Using Essential Oils Incorrectly
Essential oils are often seen as safer alternatives to synthetic fragrances, but they are
powerful chemicals that must be used with caution. Each essential oil has its own
safety usage rate, which is important to follow. Using too much can cause skin
irritation, allergic reactions, or even long-term sensitization.
In fact, essential oils tend to cause skin irritation more frequently than synthetic
fragrance oils. This doesn’t mean they shouldn’t be used, but they must be used
correctly, with careful attention to dosage and dilution.
4. Making Your Own Botanical Extracts
DIY botanical extracts are a popular idea in the natural skincare community, but they
come with significant risks. Making your own extracts—whether in water, glycerin,
alcohol, or oil—can lead to contamination. The homemade extract might contain
bacteria, yeast, or other contaminants that could ruin your product and pose a health
risk. Moreover, you can’t control the potency of DIY extracts, so you might not be
getting the right concentration of beneficial compounds.
It’s far safer and more effective to purchase ready-made extracts from reliable suppliers,
where they’ve been processed and tested for safe, consistent use in skincare
formulations.
5. Using as Few Ingredients as Possible
While there’s a trend towards minimalist formulations, particularly for those who want to
“simplify” their skincare, it’s not always practical—especially when formulating
emulsions. Anhydrous products, which contain no water, can sometimes be formulated
with just a few ingredients, but emulsions (products that mix water and oil) require
additional components like emulsifiers, stabilizers, and preservatives to remain safe
and effective.
Some beginners try to avoid using these ingredients, but they are often essential for
product stability and safety. For example, natural emulsifiers usually require more
stabilizers than some synthetic emulsifiers, like Emulsifying Wax NF, which offers
built-in stability features.
6. Avoiding Preservatives
One of the most dangerous mistakes beginners make is refusing to use preservatives in
products that contain water. Water-based products are highly susceptible to microbial
contamination, which can lead to mold, bacteria, and yeast growth. This isn’t just
unpleasant—it’s a serious health risk.
A proper, broad-spectrum preservative is mandatory in any product that contains water
or could be exposed to it. Neglecting to use a preservative is not just risky, it can be
deadly. Protect yourself and your customers by using preservatives in your
water-containing formulations.
7. Using Vitamin E as a Preservative
There’s a common misconception that Vitamin E or Rosemary Extract can act as
preservatives, but this isn’t true. These ingredients are antioxidants, not preservatives.
Antioxidants help slow down the oxidation of oils, preventing them from going rancid,
but they do not prevent the growth of bacteria, mold, or yeast in a product.
For water-containing products, you need a proper preservative, not just an antioxidant..
8. Using Herbal Teas in Emulsions
Many people associate herbal teas with health benefits, and it’s easy to assume that
these benefits can be transferred to skincare by using herbal teas in place of water.
However, using herbal teas in lotions or other emulsions significantly increases the risk
of contamination. Herbal teas can introduce bacteria, yeast, or mold into your product,
and without professional testing or preservation, the contamination risk is high.
Instead of using herbal teas, consider using tea extracts from trusted suppliers, such
as green or black tea extracts from Formulator Sample Shop. These extracts provide all
the benefits of tea in a safe and controlled manner.
9. Using Beeswax as an Emulsifier
Beeswax is a popular ingredient for DIY skincare formulations, especially in balms and
creams. While beeswax is an excellent thickener for oil-based products and emulsions,
it is not an emulsifier. It cannot bind water and oil together to create a stable emulsion.
For emulsions, you need a proper emulsifier like Emulsifying Wax NF, which can
successfully combine the oil and water phases in a formulation.
10. Not Using a Thermometer
Temperature is critical in skincare formulation, particularly when making emulsions.
Many raw materials are heat-sensitive, and adding them at the wrong temperature can
compromise their effectiveness. For example, ingredients like Vitamin E, fragrance
oils, and essential oils should be added below 40°C to preserve their benefits.
If you're making hot-process emulsions, both the oil and water phases need to be
heated to specific temperatures, often between 70°C and 75°C, before being combined.
Additionally, the cool-down phase (where you add sensitive ingredients) must be below
40°C. Without a thermometer, it's impossible to know if you're working within the
required temperature ranges, which could result in ineffective products.
It’s recommended to have at least two thermometers on hand when formulating,
especially when working with temperature-sensitive ingredients.
Final Thoughts: Safety and Effectiveness First
While natural ingredients can be a wonderful addition to skincare, it's important to
remember that natural doesn’t always mean safe. In many cases, natural ingredients
can cause irritation or even harm if used incorrectly. Similarly, avoiding important
components like preservatives or emulsifiers can lead to unstable, unsafe products.
By avoiding these common mistakes, doing proper research, and using reliable
ingredients, you can create safe, effective, and natural skincare products that meet the
highest standards of quality.
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