Hello Everyone,
I've put together a shopping list of essential ingredients that you'll find in many of my formulations. This list covers the basics you'll need, along with a few splurge-worthy materials if they fit within your budget. Consider this post your foundational guide—I’ll be updating it every couple of months with new ingredient recommendations for upcoming units as they’re released.
Basic Must-Haves
Liquid Germall PlusA broad-spectrum preservative is a non-negotiable investment. Liquid Germall Plus is an excellent choice, as it is effective across a wide pH range (3-8), affordable, and readily available. While it isn’t COSMOS-approved, it’s safe within its usage guidelines. If you prefer a COSMOS-approved preservative, consider Germaben II. However, note that COSMOS ingredients generally come with a higher price tag.
Distilled/Deionized WaterEssential for any water-containing formulations. It’s the foundation of countless cosmetic products.
Carrier OilsTo avoid overspending, start with a selection of 3-5 versatile oils:
Sunflower Oil: Light, quick-absorbing, and cost-effective.
Jojoba Oil: A must-have, as it’s unique and difficult to substitute.
Sweet Almond, Avocado, or Rice Bran Oil: Choose one of these for additional versatility.
Exotic Oils: If budget permits, pick one (e.g., watermelon, argan, rosehip, or blueberry) for added luxury. Keep in mind this is a want not a need.
I’ll dive deeper into carrier oils in a future post, including my personal experiences and lessons learned.
Cosmetic ButtersStock up on at least one soft and one hard butter:
Refined Shea or Refined Mango Butter: Either can be substituted for the other.
Cocoa or Kokum Butter: Again, choose one.
Tip: Anhydrous products, where butters and oils are used in higher percentages, will be developed in fall and winter. For emulsions, you’ll use smaller quantities, so start with small amounts to keep costs down.
Vitamin E (Mixed Tocopherols)A vital antioxidant to prevent your formulations from oxidizing. A small bottle will last a long time. Be sure to get the mixed tocopherols version, as it offers the best protection.
Cetyl AlcoholThis fatty alcohol is a staple for emulsion stabilization, adding body and viscosity to creams and lotions, and improving texture with a velvety feel.
GlycerinAn affordable and accessible humectant found at every small-scale supplier.
Propanediol 1,3Another excellent humectant with fantastic skin properties, and without the stickiness.
Dl-Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5)Known for its skin and hair benefits, this is a great multi-functional ingredient to have on hand.
AllantoinAffordable and effective, allantoin is a soothing agent that goes a long way in formulations.
Siligel or Solagum AX or Aristoflex AVCThese gums are thickeners and rheology modifiers that work well in a variety of formulations. Alternatively, you could choose Aristoflex AVC for a more budget-friendly option. Prenuetralized carbomer, will work but note that we’ll cover carbomers in-depth in a future unit. I’ll give you a month's notice before that unit, so no need to purchase it just yet. I suggest avoiding carbomers until we have covered them. They are not cut and paste and require knowledge to work with correctly. Although Xanthan Gum is cheaper, it doesn’t perform as well in a wide range of formulas.
EmulsifiersThis category is vast, and I can’t recommend just one that will work for all formulations. If your budget allows, I suggest purchasing a non-ionic, anionic, and cationic emulsifier to give you flexibility and stability in your creations.
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