In today’s beauty industry, there is a growing demand for "natural," "organic," and "naturally
derived" cosmetic products. However, this trend often arises from misconceptions and
fear-driven narratives common in online discussions. The focus on naturalness typically
revolves around the ingredients used in formulations, but it’s essential to understand the precise meanings of these terms. Additionally, it’s important to recognize that natural does not always mean better or safer. Before we dive into how to identify, choose, and formulate with natural raw materials, let's learn to identify exactly what natural is, and isn’t.
When selecting ingredients for formulation, consider the following:
● What is the ingredient derived from?
● How has it been processed?
● What are your personal values and ethics regarding ingredient sourcing?
1. Natural Ingredients (N)
Natural ingredients are those that originate entirely from natural sources and undergo only
approved physical processing methods.
Natural Approved Processing Methods:
● Blending
● Decoction
● Roasting
● Squeezing/Crushing
● Grinding/Maceration
● Centrifuging
● Pressure
● Sifting
● Sterilization with UV or heat
● Filtration/Purification
● Pastillation
● Desiccation/Drying
● Cold Processing
● Distillation
● Bleaching/Deodorization
● Solvent Extraction using ethanol, distilled water, or vegetable glycerin
Natural ingredients are often refined to remove impurities while maintaining their inherent
properties. Examples include plant oils, herbal extracts, and essential oils. However, these
ingredients can sometimes cause skin sensitivity or irritation and may harbor contaminants if not processed properly. Therefore, it is vital to source natural ingredients from reputable suppliers to ensure quality and safety.
2. Certified Organic Ingredients
Certified organic ingredients are derived from natural sources and are cultivated without the use of synthetic pesticides or fertilizers. To carry a certified organic label, the ingredient must be traceable through every stage of its supply chain, from the vendor back to the farm. Certification ensures adherence to strict guidelines.
Certified Organic Approved Processing Methods:
● Blending
● Decoction
● Roasting
● Squeezing/Crushing
● Grinding/Maceration
● Centrifuging
● Pressure
● Sifting
● Sterilization with UV or heat
● Filtration/Purification
● Pastillation
● Desiccation/Drying
Organic certification guarantees that ingredients are processed using only approved methods, ensuring purity and alignment with organic standards. This certification helps consumers make informed choices and supports sustainable agricultural practices.
3. Derived From Nature With Minimal Processing (NDM)
NDM ingredients originate from natural sources and undergo minimal processing to retain their natural properties. These processes ensure the integrity of the ingredient while minimizing alteration from its original state.
Minimal Processing Methods:
● Hydration
● Oxidation/Reduction
● Alkylation
● Esterification
● Transesterification
● Condensation
● Fermentation
● Hydrogenation
● Saponification
● Neutralization
● Hydrolysis
● Sulfation
These ingredients preserve much of their natural essence and are commonly used in
formulations where a balance between natural sourcing and functional performance is desired.
4. Derived From Nature, Processed Using Synthetic Chemicals (NDS)
This category includes ingredients that, although initially sourced from nature, undergo synthetic processing. This can create confusion about their naturalness. These materials may contain synthetic additives or be processed using synthetic methods.
Common Processing Methods:
● Ethoxylation
● Propoxylation
● Alkoxylation
● Methylation
● Sulfonation
Understanding this distinction is crucial when evaluating ingredients. Reviewing the Certificate of Analysis for these materials ensures transparency and supports accurate labeling and
formulation.
5. Nature Identical Ingredients (NI)
Nature identical ingredients are synthetic compounds designed to replicate natural substances. Despite their synthetic origins, they often contain fewer impurities than natural equivalents and are considered safe for cosmetic use. Some even receive COSMOS approval.
Examples include:
● Vitamin E tocopherol
● Various amino acids
● Vitamin A
● Vitamin B5
● Non-vegetable glycerin
These ingredients undergo synthetic processing to achieve their final form and are favored for their stability, safety, and cost-effectiveness.
6. Synthetic Ingredients (S)
Synthetic ingredients are produced entirely from synthetic chemicals, often derived from
petroleum by-products. These ingredients undergo multiple processing stages, with each step refining the material to ensure purity.
Key Characteristics:
● Cost-effective production
● Higher purity and stability compared to natural ingredients
● Absence of impurities that require removal
While synthetic ingredients are non-renewable, their production is efficient and controlled. It is important to note that synthetic ingredients are subject to rigorous safety assessments, just like their natural counterparts. They do not inherently pose greater health risks and are often less irritating due to their purity.
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