Formulating Body Washes🧴💧
70 pages packed with knowledge, tips, and formulation techniques to help you create high-performing, skin-friendly body washes!
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
Chapter 1: Formulations Not Recipes
Understanding Cosmetic Formulas: From Recipes to Professional Formulation
Why Cosmetic Formulas Are Not Recipes
Why We Use Percentages and Weight-Based Measurements
Chapter 2: Reading, Writing, and Upscaling Cosmetic Formulations
Total Percentage = 100% w/w
Convert to Grams
Chapter 3: Some of The Basics
Distilled Water: The Only Water You Should Be Using
Mixing Matters: Follow the Directions Exactly
High Shear Mixing
What Is High Shear Mixing?
Low Shear Mixing
What Is Low Shear Mixing?
Batch Size: Start Small
Substitutions: Proceed with Caution
Chapter 4: What Is A Surfactant
Understanding Surfactants: The Basics
The Chemical Structure of a Surfactant
The Importance of Chain Length
Surfactants Align at Interfaces
Emulsifiers and Surfactants: The Same Backbone, Different Function
Surfactants
Emulsifiers
Chapter 5: Micelles
What Are Micelles?
Types of Micelles
Micelles Are Dynamic
When Do Micelles Form?
What Affects Micelle Formation?
Chapter 6: HLB
What is HLB?
Interpreting HLB Numbers
How HLB Relates to Surfactants
Chapter 7: Surfactant Charges
Why Surfactant Charge Matters
1. Anionic Surfactants
2. Cationic Surfactants
3. Non-Ionic Surfactants
4. Amphoteric (Zwitterionic) Surfactants
Secondary and Tertiary Surfactants in Formulation
Chapter 8: Combining Surfactants
Why Combine Surfactants?
The Roles in a Surfactant System
Primary Surfactant
Secondary (Co-) Surfactant
Tertiary Surfactant / Additive Surfactant
Chapter 9: Surfactant Blends
Making Body Washes Easier for New Formulators
Why I Love Surfactant Blends
Beginner-Friendly
Time-Saving
Cost-Efficient
Storage-Saving
Scalable & Consistent
Formulating with Blends: Focus on Body Washes
Plantapon® SF (NA) – Manufactured by BASF
Iselux® Ultra Mild Surfactant Blend (also known as Ultra Mild Concentrate)
Cleansing Blend WF – Manufactured by MakingCosmetics
Chapter 10: Target Market + Consumer Perception
Why You Must Start With the Consumer
Formulating for Everyone Means Selling to No One
Case Study: Comparing Two Body Washes
1) Sisley Paris – Izia Perfumed Bath and Shower Gel
2) Softsoap – Coconut Butter Scrub
Shared Surfactant Backbone, Different Experiences
Chapter 11: Surface Tension
  Surfactants: Surface Tension Modifiers
Chapter 12: Active Content
What Is Active Content?
Why Active Content Is So Important
Example: Formulating with SLES
Chapter 13: Active Surface Matter
Why ASM Matters in Body Washes
How Surfactants Are Supplied
How to Calculate ASM
Example
Chapter 14: Mildness + Moisture
2 Building a Mild Surfactant System
Adding Moisture & Skin Conditioning Benefits
The Lipid Myth in Body Washes
Botanical Extracts
Fragrance & Essential Oils
Formulator's Checklist for Mild + Moisturizing Body Washes
Chapter 15: Hard Water
How to Combat Hard Water Interference
Chapter 16: Thickening Body Wash Formulations
1) Gums
1a) Xanthan Gum
1b) Siligel
1c) Solagum AX
2) Crothix™ Liquid
3) Salt (Sodium Chloride)
4) Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC)
5) Sepimax Zen
Chapter 17: pH in Body Wash Formulation
What Is pH?
Importance of pH Adjustment
Ideal pH for Body Washes
pH-Sensitive Ingredients
How to Adjust pH
1. Increasing pH
2. Lowering pH
Testing pH
Safety Precautions
Cucumber + Caffeine Awakening Body Wash
Formula Cucumber + Rice Protein Body Wash
Watermelon + Cucumber Ultra Hydration Body Wash